Sunday, October 22, 2017

'Holy Kidarnath- May 2017' - by K.J.S.Chatrath

Our Honourable Prime Minister Mr. Modi visited the holy Kidarnath shrine 3 days back. It reminded me of my fourth visit there in May 2017. I had walked up the 16 kms and the next day climbed down the 16 kilometres much, against the advice of the Group Leader and members of the Garwhal Mandal Vikas Nigam Group that I had joined.

Here are a few photos from that trip:



Tuesday, October 10, 2017

Watching the play 'Mohan se Mahatama' K.J.S.Chatrath

  I watched the play 'Mohan se Mahatama' at the India International Centre, New Delhi on 9th October. It was in Hindustani and was presented by Pierrot's Group. It has been directed by Dr. M. Sayeed Alam.

At the outset the compere reminded allabout the sad passing away of Tom Alter a few days back. The situation was all the more poignant as Tom Alter had played thepart of Gandhiji as Sutradhar in this play staged in July this year. The audience stood in a two minute silence to pay hamage to the late Tom Alter.

 Photo of late Tom Alter playing the role of Gandhiji in a staging of this play earlier on 15th July. 
Photo source: The Indian Express. 

 Actor who excellently played the same role in the staging on 9th October.

The opening scene showing three women draped in white, belonging to three different age groups, taking out lice from each others hairs and talking loudly surely gains immediate attention of the audience.

I felt small watching the play as I knew almost nothing about the Champaran Satyagraha of Gandhiji before this.

The audience was all attention. However I did feel a little uncomfortable with two things- both relating to the scenes of young Gandhiji in Champaran. Firstly I found the very fine actor playing the role of young Gandhiji to be too stout, tall and well built. Secondly the scenes and the delivery of dialogues gave the impression of some arrogance rather than of sheer humility which was the well known trait of the Mahatma. And the choice of actors to play the role of the English officers  too could have been better.

This play is definitely worth a visit to know more about Gandhiji and Indian freedom movement.

Thursday, September 21, 2017

'Shaiklabhanjika in Musee Guimet, Paris, France' - by K.J.S.Chatrath

I visited Musee guimet in Paris in June this year. Its collections focus on  South East Asia. I found the following statue of shailabhanjika to be very fascinating. 10th or 11th century AD- Source...Madhya Pradesh or Rajasthan.

  A salabhanjika is the sculpture of a woman, displaying stylized feminine features, standing near a tree and grasping a branch. The name of these figures comes from the Sanskrit śālabhañjikā meaning 'breaking a branch of a sala tree.  

Sunday, July 30, 2017

'Visit National Museum, New Delhi' - by K.J.S.Chatrath

 Saraswati, Goddess of Learning & Wisdom, Chamana, 12th century A.D., Pally, Rajasthan, on display in the entrance of the National Museum, New Delhi. 

Let us learn about our rich cultural heritage and take pride in it. Visit National Museum, New Delhi.

Thursday, June 1, 2017

'64 hairstyles of 64 (Chausath) Yoginis in Hirapur temple, Odisha, Part-I' by K.J.S.Chatrath

The focus of the present article is on the amazing hairstyles displayed by 64 yoginis in the Chausath Yogini temple of Hirapur, near Bhubaneswar in Odisha that I visited in January this year.  But before coming to the hairstyles, I need to acknowledge that I have been following the travel blog of an extraordinary blogger ( Ms. Ragini Puri. She does not write about the usual touristy places. She visits out of the way, little known places and writes about those in an investigative way. I read her blogs about Odisha. 

Having worked in Odisha for over three and a half decades I could relate to the places visited by  her. But when she wrote about the Chausath Yogini temple at Hirapur near Bhubaneswar, I felt embarassed  as I did not know about the existence of this extraordinary temple dating back from 6th to 9th century AD. So let me say a big Thank Your to Ms. Puri, whom I have not yet had the privilege of meeting.

A brief mention about the cult of Chausath Yoginis needs to be made here. There was an active cult of dakinis usually called yoginis from the ninth (one view is the sixth) through at least to the thirteenth centuries. Nine yogini temples have been discovered so far.  The best known are the two in the state of Orissa (Ranipur Jharial & Hirapur) and the one each in Madhya Pradesh, Uttar Pradesh and Tamil Nadu.

Chausath Yogini Temple at Ranipur Jharial. Photo source: Odisha  Tourism

Ranipur Jharial, located in the Bolangir district of Odisha, is said to be mentioned as "Soma Tirtha" in scriptures. It combines a section of religious faiths like Shaivism, Buddhism, Vaisnavism and Tantrism. I visited it long back in 1970.

Chausath Yogini Temple, Khajuraho. It is in  a  rectangular while all others are  in  circular shapes. Photo source: Wikimedia commons. 

 Brihadeeswarar Chausath Yodini temple, near Jabalpur. Photo source:

It is argued that the architect of the  Indian Parliament House building had drawn inspiration from this Chausath Yogini temple in Morena in Madhya Pradesh but, quite sadly, Edwin Lutyens and Herbert Baker, the architects, failed to acknowledge it. Photo source:

Now one comes to the Chusath Yogini Temple at Hirapur near Bhubaneswar. It is a hypaethral (without roof) temple.It is in excellent condition and some puja is also performed here. Ofcourse a good number of the statues have broken arms or other parts but what is available makes one wonder at the sheer mastery of the sculptors of Odisha of the yore. The temple is believed to have been built by Queen Hiradevi of Bramha dynasty during 9th century.

It is built in a circular fashion, with blocks of sand stone. The inside of the circular wall has cavities, each housing the statue of a Goddess. The are idols, made of black granite, are placed  within the wall cavities. In the middle is the Goddess Kali who stands on a human head representing the triumph of the heart over the mind. The temple houses a central altar (Chandi Mandapa) which has the remaining 8 Goddess idols on all 4 sides.The legend behind the temple is said to be that Goddess took the form of 64 demi-goddesses in order to defeat a demon.The Jogini idols are generally representing a female figurine standing on an animal, a demon or a human head depicting the victory of Shakti (Feminine power).

Though each yogini statue sports a different and highly elaborate hairstyle, three main ornaments worn by each are similar- the one worn around the head and forehead, the  necklace with a sort of pendant and the ornamental chain worn around the waist.

Let us take a look at some of the statues of yoginis in this temple:

This yogini is the four armed Ajitha. Her upward going hair looks as if it represents a flame. The ornaments on her head are different from the ornaments of other yoginis.

This is yogini Vayu Veena. Her hair is braided on the right side of her head. The huge ear rings worn by her are called Kapa. She is seen standing on a stag. 

Notice how the ornament worn around the waist suggests movement. It is not straight but slightly bent as the movement is taking place. What detail! What superb mastery by the sculptor!

This yogini with an intricate cap like hair style,where the hair is combed up on the head and braided in two directions is Chandika or Maya.

This is Narmada. Her hair is braided on the right side and she is shown as holding a kapala or skull cup from which she is drinking blood.
This is the Yamuna. Her hair is seen as curling upwards.

This yogini is called Bindhiya Basini or Vrishabhanana. Her face appears to be that of a buffalo. The disheveled hair is called Jatamandal.

Two armed boar faced with raised hairstyle is Bhalluka. This hairstyle is known as Jata-Mandala. She is holding a damru in her right hand.

(Text with inputs from internet and Mr. Suresh Balabantaray's excellent book 'Sixty Four Yogini Temple Hirapur, published by Bahi Patra, Bhubaneswar, 2016 edn.)

Monday, May 29, 2017

'Konark temple and the cult of Lord Jagannath' by K.J.S.Chatrath

The other day I saw and photographed a panel from Konark temple (13th century A.D.), which gives an interesting insight into the cult of Lord Jagannath.

Photographs and write up coming soon on my blog and website.

Jai Jagannath.

'Ornaments of Lord Vishnu' - by K.J.S.Chatrath

I came across this wonderful statue of Lord Vishnu from Konark, Odisha, 13th century, Ganga Dynasty at the National Museum, New Delhi. ...